Pet Punter

Posts Tagged ‘snake’

Although the most commonly available rat snakes are from North America, Asiatic species are also occasionally available. There are often distinct color differences between young and adult rat snakes. Color mutants have also cropped up, as in the case of the black rat snake. Young individuals, who display grayish markings, can be tamed quite readily and grow fasts, but adults unused to handling  are likely to remain wild. They are somewhat arboreal by nature, and will appreciate some opportunity to climb. Another popular species is the yellow rat snake. It has dark stripes on a yellowish background when adult and related to the Everglades rat snake which has an orange background color.

The boa constrictor or common boa is one of the most widely kept and bred of the large snakes. Occurring over such a vast range, their coloration varies. For example, those around in southern parts such as Argentina are darker in color, with the dark pigmentation helping them to absorb more heat in this cooler areas of their natural habitat. A red-tailed boa originates from northern South America. Young boats, which measure about 50 cm at birth, are quite easy to care for and can be reared without difficulty. However, they will need much more spacious housing as they grow and correspondingly larger quantities of food.

Adult boats are quite capable of consuming dead rabbits and chickens, and will become more active in night, which is when they would hunt in the wild. Young boas will reach maturity when they are about three years old. A slight cooling in their quarters during the winter months, for up to eight weeks, will trigger breeding behavior. Boa constrictors range over Central and South America. They grow up to 3 m and can be difficult to handle and full size. The coloration of the emerald tree boa helps it to blend it among vegetation. It is an arboreal predator, hunting birds and other creatures in the trees.

Many snake bites can be poisonous and may be followed by swelling around the wound, progressive lethargy and hyperventilation which may be accompanied by fits, followed by collapse and coma. Once the wound site has been identified, try to apply a tourniquet above the punctures as quickly as possible. The most likely site of a bite is on the leg, near the paws, in which case the tourniquet should be applied to the upper leg. If the wound is around the face or neck, then there is little that can be done.

When applying to a tourniquet to a snake bite, the aim is to prevent the venom entering the bloodstream. However, remember that the application of a tourniquet cuts off the blood supply to the limb. The tourniquet should therefore be slackened every two or three minutes to ensure that the tissues are kept alive, even if this results in releasing a limited amount of the venom into the bloodstream. If this is not done, there is a possibility of such severe tissue damage that the limb would have to be amputated.

Reaching about 150 cm in long and needing thicker branches in its quarters is the beautiful emerald tree boa. These snakes originate from tropical parts of the world, where the climate is both hot and humid, and regular spraying is required, combined with good ventilation in the vivarium to prevent the development of moulds. These snakes originate from tropical parts of the world, where the climate is both hot and humid, and regular spraying is required, combined with good ventilation in the vivarium to prevent the development of moulds. These snakes may even drink the water that falls in their coils but do not spray them directly for this purpose – you should always provide a separate container of fresh water to supplement their fluid intake. Tree boas will hunt in the trees, and their food and water should be provided high up in the vivarium on a purpose-built shelf.

Another popular species in the indigo snake (Drymarchon corais) which again displays considerable variation in its coloration and markings. Young snakes un this case are banded, whereas adults tend to be dark in color. They will make a sound with their tails, rather than rattlesnakes, when threatened. Pairs need to be supervised when mating because male indigo snakes can become very aggressive.

For most snakes, especially when they have been tamed, feeding is straightforward and you need only leave their food in the vivarium. You may have to use forceps in the case of more reluctant eaters; these must be blunt ended to avoid any injury to the snake when it strikes. Slowly wave the food item in front of the snake’s head, encouraging it to lunge at the item and not at your hand. Not all snakes like hunt on the ground. As a result, particularly for a nervous individual, food may have to be provided off the floor on a raised feeding shelf. Make your snake’s food is carefully prepared, and then frozen food is thoroughly defrosted before it is fed to the snake.

Prepared snake food have a high palatability, but you may still need to carry out what is described as “odor manipulation” when introducing new food to the snake’s diet. These reptiles rely very heavily on scent to determine what is edible. You will need to rub the new time, such as the complete food known as snake sausages – which resemble sausages in appearance – with a dead mouse or whatever the snake has been eating previously. This will transfer the familiar scent to the new food, making it palatable to the snake. Once the snake is eating the new food readily, there will be no need to carry out this procedure.

Snakes are not difficult creatures to care for in a home environment but their needs have to be met. Ultimately, this will ensure that they thrive without problems. Take great care when travelling with a snake. There is a real risk of chilling and also of death from heat stroke if the snake is left for even a few minutes in a locked car during cold or hot weather. In addition, if the travelling container is not secure, there is a risk that the snake could escape and become lost in the vehicle, slithering under a seat, for example, where it will be difficult to thrive.

Special carve bags, tightly tied at the top, are the safest option. The bag itself can then be conveniently carried in a box. When you first arrive home with a new snake, place this bag in the vivarium (set up in advance to check the equipment is working properly) and untie the bag. The snake will emerge on its own in due course. While small snakes are carried in ventilated plastic containers, large individuals should be carried in special escape-proof canvas bags with the top always firmly tied. All snakes should be provided with a container of fresh water and do not fill this on the top, however, as when the snake enters the bowl, the water will overflow and soak the bedding.