Pet Punter

Archive for the ‘Pet House’ Category

Specially designed hutches are now available for rabbits living indoors. It is a good idea to fit a pen around the hutch for extra safety, and to keep your rabbit in its hutch or pen when you are out. Although it may seem appropriate to place the hutch and run in a conservatory or porch, bear in mind that the temperature here can rapidly raise to a fatal level for your rabbit on a hot day. Prepare the hutch in just the same way as outdoor accommodation.

Do not forget to provide hay as this is an essential source of fiber in the rabbit’s diet, and will lessen its inclination to chew at the carpets. For house training, choose a low-sided cat litter tray that gives the rabbit easy access, and use a lightweight litter. Scoop up some of the rabbit’s droppings on the litter, and then put the rabbit on the tray. It is often helpful to have a pen at this early stage as you can keep your pet confined here until it is trained in using the litter tray and this will avoid any soiling around the home.

Never try to empty the tank by sucking water through a length of rubber tubing. If you want to use a siphoning method, fill the tube with tap water and place one end in the tank, keeping your finger in place over the other, before releasing this and triggering the flow into a bucket. Alternatively, you can obtain a special aquatic siphon for this purpose. Rinse the cartridge of the power filters in the tap water as well, squeezing the foam out to remove the debris which will have been sucked in here. In the case of a small tank, you may be able to simply to tip the water straight down a drain.

Never use the kitchen sink for this purpose because of the risk of introducing harmful bacteria. When filing the tank again, check the water temperature before allowing the turtles back into the tank. In the summer it will be beneficial, as they grow bigger to allow turtles outside on warm days. Rocks for basking purposes should again be included in an outdoor tank. Allow the turtles into an outdoor pond but the turtle should always be brought inside at night.

Once the décor is in place, you can fill the tank with water. Only use water from the cold supply to avoid the risk of copper being introduced to the aquarium, as this can be toxic, especially to invertebrates. Add a set volume of water to a plastic bucket before stirring in the recommended quantity of sea salt, bought from specialist suppliers, ad ensure that the salt dissolves completely before pouring the solution into the tank. Once the tank is full, switch on the air pump, to ensure that the salt has dissolved, because this will assist in circulating the water, as well as the heating system.

Check on the concentration of salts in the water by measuring the specific gravity figure with a hydrometer. This needs to be set against the water temperature to give a reading; the temperature needs to rise to approximately 1.023, but it may take several days to stabilize when the tank is first set up. This is why it is important not to add fish to marine aquarium immediately, but to allow the system time to settle down for perhaps a week before head.

Correct lighting is absolutely vital in a vivarium for lizards. It is not a matter of using an ordinary light bulb or fluorescent tube, however, because these do not emit light of the same wavelength as sunlight, specifically light from the ultraviolet part of the spectrum. There are two components that are of significance to the well-being of reptiles – UVA, which acts as an appetite stimulant and generally encourages activity, including the onset of breeding behavior, and UVB which is vital for the synthesis of Vitamin D3. This is vital in regulating the body’s calcium stores and helping to ensure this mineral remains in the correct ratio with phosphorous. Special full-spectrum fluorescent tubes can be fitted into the vivarium for this purpose.

Their ultraviolet light output will decline over a period of time – most tubes need to be replaced after nine months of usage., even though they may appear to be still working. Black light is also sometimes used in vivaria for lizards, but these do not have an adequate UVB output. Lighting equipment for a lizard vivarium including a control unit. Spotlights for basking purposes are very important, but ensure arboreal species cannot burn themselves. Special fluorescent tubes are available that emit the vital ultraviolet rays necessary for the lizard’s calcium, metabolism and growth. More often than not, it is important the lighting décor should match the natural habitat of the lizard at all times.

 The range of housing options for rats and mice has grown significantly over recent years. Special cages are now  available that provide plenty of climbing space and are essentially escape proof – a highly important consideration when keeping these rodents in the home as, once free they can be difficult to recapture. To be extra safe, it is worthwhile adding a small combination look at the door. If you prefer not to use a mesh cage – which can be a magnet to a cat – an acrylic container with a ventilated roof is suitable alternative.

This lightweight option is easy to move around but, as with any housing for pets in the home, be sure not to position in the cage resting on furniture in front of a window. In hot weather, your pet may be affected by heat stress, with the glass magnifying the sun’s rays. Rats and mice are also nocturnal creatures and bright daylight can upset their sleep patterns. Position cages in a draught-free place because, in spite of the hardiness of their wild relatives, domestic rats and mice are susceptible to chilling.

Most cages for rats are equipped with a detachable metal tray where the dropping collects. It is a good idea to line the tray with shavings but do not use this as a lining material in the rat’s quarters, where they can burrow directly into it. A better option for this purpose is to use dust-free bedding also sold in pet stores. Both mice and rats are shy creatures so it is essential to provide them with a thick layer of bedding in a corner of quarters where they can retreat and curl up to sleep.

Because of their destructive natures, parrots will require much stronger housing than finches. Even budgerigars can whittle away easily at wood and it is especially important that aviaries for all these birds have mesh on their inner faces, when they are assembled, to cover and protect the timber frame. The wire gauge also needs to be correspondingly thicker to resist the bills of parrots. If you are buying an aviary flight, check the mesh is firmly attached to the timber framework by proper netting staples, even if this means having to reinforce them yourself before assembling the aviary.

The mesh should be anchored to a block work base by means of frame fixers, with the base itself extending at least 30 cm below ground level to provide support and exclude rodents. The panels themselves, as before, can be held together with bolts, which should be well oiled and fitted with washers so that the flight can be moved easily – if you move home, for example. Entry should be via safety porch, located at the rear of the aviary, leading into the shelter. This will ensure that the birds do not escape when you enter the aviary.

The set-up required by newts and salamanders is not only influenced by the species which you are keeping, but also by the time of year. Salamanders by nature are more terrestrial in their habits, and so they will benefit from an enclosure which has a large floor area, compared with its height. It needs to be linead predominantly with damp moss. There are acrylic enclosures of this type available, which come complete with a ventilated and secure roof covering, incorporating a feeding hatch.

Unfortunately, the moss is unlikely to grow in these surroundings, and ultimately will need to be replaced. Suitable retreats will be essential in the enclosure, as salamanders often like to burrow away under logs. These should always be lifted carefully as a result, to avoid any risj of injuring amphibians which may be hiding there. A dish of water which allows the salamanders to submerge themselves is also important, with a rim that merges with the surrounding substrate. Smooth pebbles which allow the amphibians to climb back out again are essential, but these must be firmly supported in the tank.

When filing the water container, it helps to use a large jug for the purpose. Fill this with water from the cold tap, which must then be left to stand for at least 24 hours to remove any chlorine-based chemicals; alternatively, you could use a dechlorinator. This also applies in the case of water that is used to spray the moss. Since the water will need to be changed regularly, try to position the container so that you can life it out easily without causing a major disturbance in the vivarium.

You may want to add a couple of sprigs of water plants to the container. Elodea or Canadian pondweed is a good choice for this purpose, particularly if there s a likelihood of the vivarium occupants breeding as it is popular for egg-laying purposes, especially with female newts. Living plants in the substrate are harder to establish, although small ferns in pots may thrive in these surroundings. They can also give an indication of poor ventilation if they stare damping off and turning mouldly, which is likely to have an adverse effect on the amphibian’s health.

Looking after your hamster correctly involves providing it with adequate food and shelter. These basics will ensure that it stays healthy and happy throughout its life.

Hamster Cages: Although the traditional hamster cage is still a popular option, other more inventive housing system are now available. If you opt for a cage, check that the base fits securely to the mesh roof area. Should there be any weakness here, the hammer is likely to find a gap and escape into the room. This applies especially in the case of young Russian hamsters, since cages on the market are generally intended for the larger Syrian species. Another important aspect of cage design to consider is the strength of the door. It will be easier to take your hamster out of its quarters if the door is on the side of the cage, rather than in the roof. Door hinges have a tendency to become weaker over time, so it is a good idea to invest in a small combination [padlock as an extra security precaution.

A cage should have a sleeping area. Make sure the bedding is safe hamster bedding, which will cause a potentially fatal blockage in the rodent’s intestinal tracts if swallowed. You can buy bedding at a pet store. Tease it out by hand, so that the hamster on human can burrow into it easily. Another option is sectional housing, which mimics the layout of a hamster’s burrow in the wild and has specially designed tunnel systems with enlarged nest area. It is a good idea to begin with a basic starter kit, and then add inexpensive extra sections. You can create an entire housing system this way, with the water bottle fitting into the design. Such system provide a more secure environment for a hamster than a cage, but you should still check regularly to see that the rodent is not nibbling at the plastic at any point, through which it might attempt to escape. It is mandatory to check the door fastening is secure in a typical hamster cage, because if a hamster escapes into the room, recapturing it is likely to prove very difficult.

Outdoor Housing: Hutches outdoor should be divided into two sections – an outer area with a mesh front, and secure, snug sleeping quarters. Guinea pigs do not sit up like rabbits, so the hutch does not need to be especially tall. When you buy a hutch check that the doors are secure, and add combination locks to latches to deter dexterous foxes. It is also a good idea to oil the hinges every couple of months, enabling them to open smoothly, and helping to prolong their lifespan. Regularly check the roofing felt to ensure that the interior remain dry. A dense layer of hay will help to provide warm sleeping quarters, and will supplement the guinea pig’s diet. If you are planning to construct the hutch yourself, you should give it secure legs, made of 5 cm square timber, that stand at least 30 cm off the ground. The sides of the hutch can be constructed using tongue-and-groove timber, although thick marine plywood often proves to be more durable. The roof should slope from front to back, with an overhang at the back so that rainwater runs off readily, rather than down the back of the hutch where it would rot the wood.

Outdoor runs for guinea pigs are similar to rabbit runs, although, like hutches, they do not need to be as tall. Pet store usually stock a variety runs including ark-shaped designs, which have a dry section at one end where the guinea pig can retreat in bad weather, and rectangular runs, which also have a covered area. Check that you can reach right into the run to pick up the guinea pig, since guinea pigs can be very difficult to catch. Position the run in a shady spot and remember to move it every week or so, to ensure that the area of grass beneath the sides of the run does not die back. Avoid using lawn that has recently been treated with weedkillers or potentially harmful chemicals. Place the run on level ground as a guinea pig may otherwise escape beneath one of the sides; you may not be aware of this danger if the grass is long. Fresh drinking water should always be available in the run.

Indoor Housing: An indoor hutch should combine a cage with a plastic base and a wire mesh surround that prevents the guinea pig from chambering out. The base will ensure that bedding is not scattered out into the room. Wire mesh lids, which lip on to the hutch, prevent attacks from dogs and cats.