Pet Punter

Archive for August, 2011

Start by assuming that your dog has fleas. They are by far the commonest external parasite of the dog. A high proportion of skin problems may be caused, directly or indirectly, by their presence. Fleas thrive in the warm and cosy environment of a centrally heated house, and there is no longer a flea season in summer followed by a flea-free winter. Treatment should be continued all through the year. Fleas are often difficult to diagnose. They are small, move rapidly and are able to hop considerable distances. They are not very easy to see on the dog, but they never live alone. If you see on flea is safe to assume that there are plenty more. If you see on flea it is safe to assume that there are plenty more. If you see none at all, they are probably still somewhere around.

Once you have convinced yourself that even your dog may have fleas, treatment is straightforward, although control is anything but. There are several effective sprays and washes available that will kill fleas safely, and most have some residual effect. But re-infestation is very difficult to prevent. If protection is, say, for three months, in practice the effectiveness is likely to decline well within that time. So some fleas come back. There are number of preparations on the market that provide effective protection around the house. Thorough vacuuming of the carpets helps but will not overcome the problem. Flea eggs, laid in their thousands, are able to survive for long periods in a warm environment. Disturbance causes the eggs to hatch, in itself a reason for regular vacuum cleaning, as the eggs in their shells are resistant to insecticides.

Living a life without pets and children will be boring and tedious for anyone because they have the capability to make us forget all our grief and sorrow. Being a veterinary technician, I know the value of pets as I spend most of the time with them. In my childhood days, I had a hamster in my home as my pet and I loved playing with it at all times. Due to a serious illness, my pet was not able to survive for many days and the death of my pet made me realize that human beings and pet animals needs proper health care.

I was also willing to become a health-care professional but I had a great passion in taking care of pets than human beings. Moreover, I can understand the behavior of pet animals easily so at last I became a veterinary technician and began to assist the pets by providing good treatment which is needed for it. Right now, I have a keen interest to learn about curing disease or illness in children because they too are much loved by me.

In order to take my career to a new level, I decided to pursue pals online course because I can become an intensive care professional and save the life of the children with heart-related diseases. I have a strong determination that I can boldly face any life-threatening medical emergencies and treat them by providing excellent service. At present, I have the capacity to care for the pets and human beings and shine well in the health education field.

Setting up an outdoor pond, especially for koi is likely to be a costly and time-consuming exercise. Even so, the availability of new materials and particularly butyl liners, with a life expectancy of perhaps 50 years or more, means that this task is now considerably, easier and the results more durable than in the past. The major advantage of creating a linear pond is that you can make this to a suitable size for the fish, whereas many of the pre-formed ponds on the market are simply too small and not deep enough for overwintering fish, where a minimum depth of approximately 1.2 m should be the aim.

If you have a young family, however, great thought needs to be given to the design of the pond: toodlers can drown in just a few inches of water. It may well be better to construct a raised pond, built above ground level, which young children will not be able to fall into without climbing up on top of the structure first. As an additional precaution you can cover the top with a removable mesh-clad framework. When setting the pond, it is obviously pleasant if it can be easily been from inside your home, but it must not be overhung by trees, as the leaves are likely to pollute the water when they fall. Tree roots can also potentially damage the linear, even to the extent of causing a leak by perforating it.

This can be a problem with some aquatic plants too, which is why those on the floor of the ponds are best grown in containers. When it comes to working out the amount of linear required, there is a very simple formula for this purpose. You need to take twice the maximum death figure and add this to both the width and length figures, to give you the dimension needed for the linear. You will also need an underlay to place in the hole under the linear, having removed and protruding sharp stones or roots from this area first. It also helps to bed moulded ponds down on an underlay of some sort, as they should not move at all. Always check, using a spirit level and a plank of wooed, that the shell is level in the ground before starting to fill it with water.

Zebra Finch: These birds rank among the most widely kept of all finches. Their name comes from the black and white striping usually seen on the chest of cook birds, although this feature may not be apparent in some of the color forms that have since been developed. Hens can be identified by the more orangish rather than red coloration of their bills. Zebra finches are likely little birds, and they are highly social by natures, living well in groups or as single pairs. They can be housed with waxbills and the other non-aggressive finches as part of a collection. Pairs are equally adaptable in breeding terms, using open-fronted finch nest boxes or nesting baskets for this purpose. Among the popular coloars are chest-flanked whites, which replace the grey coloration of the normal variety on the head, black and wings with white. Pieds with variable white and colored areas are also popular, although it is not possible to predict the markings of chicks, from those of their parents. Fawn, silver and cream varieties are equally well established, while among the newer variants is the black-breasted, with the barring on the chest of the cock replaced by solid black coloration. There is also a crested form.

Bengalese Finch: The origin of the Bengalese is mysterious – this finch does not occur in the wild, and is does not occur in the wild, and is thought to be the result of cross-breeding with the striated manikin. Bengalese finches are thought to have been developed at least 500 years ago, probably in China. Their colorations is shades of brown. The fawn of the species is pale compared to the darker chestnuts, while the chocolate color is regarded as the original form. These colors also exist in combination with white and the crested Bengalese, as they are known, are very popular. Visual sexing is impossible with these finches and it is only the cock’s songs that distinguish them.

Gouldian Finch: The stunning Gouldian finch is unusual in that it occurs in the wild in three different head colors – red, black and yellow. With domestication there have been other changes in color, including the introduction of white-breasted variants among others. Gouldians are delicate birds must be given heated accommodation, certainly through the winter. They can be bred either on a colony basis or, more commonly in breeding cages. The bills of a cock birds take on a cherry-colored tip as they come into breeding condition.

The set-up required by newts and salamanders is not only influenced by the species which you are keeping, but also by the time of year. Salamanders by nature are more terrestrial in their habits, and so they will benefit from an enclosure which has a large floor area, compared with its height. It needs to be linead predominantly with damp moss. There are acrylic enclosures of this type available, which come complete with a ventilated and secure roof covering, incorporating a feeding hatch.

Unfortunately, the moss is unlikely to grow in these surroundings, and ultimately will need to be replaced. Suitable retreats will be essential in the enclosure, as salamanders often like to burrow away under logs. These should always be lifted carefully as a result, to avoid any risj of injuring amphibians which may be hiding there. A dish of water which allows the salamanders to submerge themselves is also important, with a rim that merges with the surrounding substrate. Smooth pebbles which allow the amphibians to climb back out again are essential, but these must be firmly supported in the tank.

When filing the water container, it helps to use a large jug for the purpose. Fill this with water from the cold tap, which must then be left to stand for at least 24 hours to remove any chlorine-based chemicals; alternatively, you could use a dechlorinator. This also applies in the case of water that is used to spray the moss. Since the water will need to be changed regularly, try to position the container so that you can life it out easily without causing a major disturbance in the vivarium.

You may want to add a couple of sprigs of water plants to the container. Elodea or Canadian pondweed is a good choice for this purpose, particularly if there s a likelihood of the vivarium occupants breeding as it is popular for egg-laying purposes, especially with female newts. Living plants in the substrate are harder to establish, although small ferns in pots may thrive in these surroundings. They can also give an indication of poor ventilation if they stare damping off and turning mouldly, which is likely to have an adverse effect on the amphibian’s health.

Dogs are adaptable creatures. They can, for instance, utilize protein foods, like meats, for energy if their intake of carbohydrates is deficient. They must, however, be provided with a minimum level of each of around thirty nutrients, including the vitamin and minerals, if they are to stay healthy. All the modern prepared foods and the great majority of home-mixed diets, will provide an adequate supply of essential nutrients. Some animals’ protein is essential to maintain a dog’s health. A vegetarian diet for dogs can be devised but requires skill, although there is no doubt their dogs do not need the level of animal protein in their diet that is commonly provided.

Some fats are also vital in the diet, providing certain essential fatty acids, and acting as carriers for the fat-soluble vitamins. Carbohydrates from the bulk of most diets, including normal dog foods, whether commercially compounded or home-mixed. Provided your dog’s diet has a reasonable and the foods are not themselves wildly out of the ordinary, the owner’s concern need only be with the actual quantity given to the dog, and the total calorie provision.

The obvious and cheapest way to feed a dog is to give it biscuits alone. They offer the highest calorie content, weight for weight, of any food except pure fat, and dog biscuits are cheaper to buy than canned foods. But this is misleading because a diet that consisted solely of dog biscuits would be seriously deficient in protein and it would be deficient in fats, vitamins and minerals.

Obesity: One of the commonest afflictions in the dog is simple obesity. Owners will frequently not see it and one acknowledged, it may still be extremely difficult for them to understand that reducing the dog’s food intake is not cruel. The obesity diet has its part to play by enabling the owners to feed a low-calorie diet to the dog, which will satisfy the hunger pangs while reducing his intake of nutrients. The diet needs to be balanced by sensible variations of other important nutrients.

As an example, if you wished to reduce your dog’s weigh to 20kg, using the slower scale you would need to feed not more than 600 calories a day. Without resourcing to a special diet, this could be achieved by a total daily feed of 115 g of meat and 130 g of biscuit mixer. This is not a lot of food on a large dog’s plate, and it explains why special reducing diets, which give bulk and fill the dog’s stomach, are popular.

The smooth-coated guinea pigs are nearer in appearance to their wild ancestors than other varieties. They are now sub-divided into two categories – the shelf varieties, such as cream, chocolate or black, and the patterned varieties, such as the tortoiseshell.

Self Varieties: The black is one of the most popular members of the self group. Thanks to its glossy, sleek coat. For showing purposes, it should be entirely black in color. Breeders regard any odd white or even red hairs in its coat as a serious show flaw. Even as they grow older, these guinea pigs do not fade in color. The self chocolate is another dark variety, the color of plain chocolate, with similarity colored dark eyes and ears. Depth of coloration in the coat is essential, as it is with all self-colored guinea pigs. As new colors have been developed, some of the older varieties have declined in numbers. One of these is the self red, which is an attractive shade of rich mahogany with ruby-red eyes. The coloration of the self golden can sometime almost verge on red, although the preferred shade is ginger. The eyes in this case are usually pink, although there is also a rarer dark-eyed form.

Lighter shades in the self-colored group include the cream and a darker form that has a much yellower appearance, known as the self buff. The cream is sometimes known as the “champing cavy” to describe the shade of color required for show stock, with paler coloration being preferred. Self white guinea pigs are often slightly smaller than other colors, especially the true albino, which is recognizable by its red rather than dark eyes. The stipulation here is for the coat color to be pure white, with no trace of a yellowish hue. These white guinea pigs should not be confused with the Himalayan form, with no trace of a yellowish hue. These white guinea pigs should not be confused with the Himalayan form, which is also pure white, but is distinguishable by the darker chocolate or black areas on the nose and ears. The chocolate is the lighter form of the two Himalayan varieties.

New shelf colors are still being evolved as the demand for the novelty shade grows. The shelf blue – a blue shade of grey – which has been developed in the United States, marks a significant departure from existing solid guinea pig colors.

Dogs are pack animals, which explain many behavioral characteristics. When you are having problems think “pack leader” and act accordingly. One of the pack-behavior features that all dogs bring to their relation-ships with human beings is hierarchy and, consequently, dominance. Puppies spend a great deal of their time trying instinctively to establish where their position is in the hierarchy, and they can only do this by attempting to establish their own dominance. Some breeds are more dominant than others. The terriers, for instance, tend to be so; generally the gundogs do not try so hard. Being in the dominant role is not necessarily comfortable for a dog, particularly when the signals from their human companions are mixed and confusing. Most dogs settle happily in the submissive role once they are clearly placed there and learn that they do not have to attempt to keep everyone under control.

Feeding: The leader eats first. It is convenient to feed the dog before you eat, but if the dog observes this, you are sending one of those confusing signals. Puppy-feeding times are best arranged well away from your own meal times, which will avoid sending this signal. From the start, it is useful to make the puppy come to you for his food and wait until you are ready, perhaps by teaching him to sit before you put the bowl down.

Grooming: Touching and handling are potent signals to a dog. Daily grooming under proper control will indicate who is in charge. Some puppies will resent the handling involved – dominance again – they may react as though they are being hurt. Ignore it and insist. All puppies are capable of learning very quickly whether you really mean it.

Nipping and Biting: Most puppies will “mouth: things, including your fingers, when they are very young. This will progress to a nip. Mouthing is normal behavior in the young as they learn with their mouth and nose. Nipping is the first step in learning dominance. It is not amusing; stop it immediately, by a sharp reaction – the “No” it has already learned – and a tap if necessary. Remember your pack leader role!

Game and Fighting: All puppies like to play games; they are part of the puppy’s education, and in the light of that you should think carefully about them. Avoid contest games with your puppy. Tug-of-war is fun, but can easily develop into a contest of dominance, with the puppy either winning the tug, or glowing or snarling while hanging on. If you must play tug-of-war keep it on the very lowest key and stop immediately if the puppy starts to become too excited. Simply to stop and go away after retrieving the tug is probably as good as lesson as any. Running after a ball can be fun for the dog. Teach your puppy to bring the toy back to you by not running after the dog to get the ball. Show indifference if the puppy runs away with the ball, and reward him with praise. You have started obedience training, congratulations!

Let us assume that you know more or less the type of dog you fell you can best live with. Even though you may have no intention of ever showing your dog, dog shows are good places to vist whilr you are finally making up your mind. Talk to the people showing and find out their views about the breed – you may find that many of the exhibitors are remarkably frank about the drawbacks as well as the virtues of their breed. In the long run it pays them to be so. The next step is to look for the right breeder, not necessarily the top one in the breed, who would, quite fairy, expect a premium price for puppies of show standard. Top breeders, however, will often be the most genuinely encouraging to the potential new owner.

Many dogs are still sold through so-called “puppy farms” and pet shops. Neither is a suitable place to find a puppy. Young dogs cannot be treated as commodities to be traded at the convenience of their breeder, and serious health problems, regularly arise from this form of mistreatment of young animals. Take your time, and be prepared to wait to get the dog you really want. Above all, visit the kennels and make sure you see the dam with the puppies in the litter and if possible, the sire. Make your own mind up about the conditions in which the puppies have been reared.

There is some argument about the right age to buy a puppy, although the general consensus seems to be that about eight weeks is right. Much before that may be too early to remove the puppy from the nest; leaving it later can give rise to socialization problems, with the time between six and eight weeks regarded by behaviorists as a critical period in the puppy’s development. Certainly, if the puppy is much older than eight weeks, you need to be satisfied that it has been exposed to a sensible social environment and simply left in its rearing kennel to make its own way.

There are probably the many arguments that people used in the Middle Ages about their own personal hygiene. There are, in fact, very few breeds of dog in which regular bathing causes any ill effects, although it is sometimes citied by breeders whose dog’s coats are less than ideal for the breed. “The new owner must have over-bathed or over-groomed the puppy” can be a convenient excuse. Some breeds should never, according to the breeders, be bathed. These are the dogs that veterinary surgeons can smell through the door when the dog is brought to the surgery!

In many tropical or sub-tropical countries dogs must be bathed weekly, without fail, if certain tick-borne diseases are to be avoided. There is no evidence of poor coats in show dogs in these countries. There are three types of dog shampoo, and specialized, veterinary for particular skin conditions. If a dog is prone to allergies, any of these may precipitation one, but rarely. Shampoos from a reputable source will minimize such problems. Early training makes the task of bathing a dog easier, but few of them actually enjoy it.

A very small dog may fit into a basin, but wear waterproofs for the moment when it tips and spills everywhere. Rubbing the dog semi-dry will prevent some of the water splashing all around the room when he shakes himself – which he will do shortly. A good shake should be followed by some vigorous exercise to complete the drying out process. When the dog is bathing, you should make note that water should not get into its eyes and wipe around them once the dog has taken  bath. Grooming while the coat is still slightly damp but not wet will help make the job of removing tangles much easier. Clean and sweet smelling until some more horse manure to roll in is found.